I’ve received so many questions about how I made this arm. I got the idea from this lovely robo arm and as it turned out, she also used the same base pattern that I had planned to (Edward Elric’s automail arm).
Basically what I did was take the pattern and heavily alter the arm pieces while keeping the hand mostly the same. I used mostly craft foam combined with leftover styrene I had from a different prop project, and three different size brads (from the scrap-booking section of Michaels). I glued everything together with high temp hot glue, but I sealed the finger pieces with e6000 at the seams to ensure that they wouldn’t pop open in hot weather. Once I had all my parts glued together, I coated them in about seven layers of Mod Podge cut by half with water. Once this was done, I coated all pieces in Plasti-Dip spray (it’s a rubber coating that you can get at Home Depot near where the spray paint is). Since I wanted the arm to ultimately look used and abused, I made sure my spray wasn’t perfectly even - just don’t overspray or you’ll lose some of your detail. When this was dry, I added the brads and painted over them with black acrylic paint.
I covered each piece first with silver Rub n Buff - again, acquired at Michael’s. Then I did washes and dry brush layers of black, brown, and orange with some additional green Rub n Buff antiquing wax. I started with the idea of making the rust look natural but got lazy halfway through.
The forearm closes with velcro, hot glued in place. The upper arm doesn’t open, it just slides on and stays. I accidentally made the arm smaller than I’d wanted to so it’s a tight enough fit that the pieces don’t slide around. The wiring between the joints is held in with duct tape, and only attached at one end, so it moves in and out as I flex my arm and wrist. The hand piece slides on. I wore a full-arm length glove under the arm to improve the aesthetic and for comfort.
I hope I covered everything. Let me know if there are any questions and good luck!
Great for Eridan, Derse dreamer Eridan, Erisolsprite, Guidestuck!Erisol, Roxy, Trickster!Roxy, Trickster!Eridan
yeah you get it
It’s really cozy but could be made with a cooler material, too.
submitted by dragoncalibrator
So i took notice that you guys didn’t have too many tutorials or patterns for TZ’s dragon cloak so I figured i’d offer mine since it gives you an idea of how to cut out the fabric pieces!!
It also goes about showing how to make the hood look like an actual dragon head instead of just a hood with a cube sewn on for the nose!!
submitted by lord-ponty
here you go anons. here is the tutorial. this includes: what to buy and why, how to make the shirt (also Aradia’s shoes), how to make horns, how to discretely mount them, and a brief briefing on makeup and wig styling. and as you can see I am a valid source because my Aradia cosplay is very attractive.
Ok so I’ve just found a great way to paint the rubber part of your shoes without it coming off or looking streaky (ignore the poor paint job my hands are shaky) I used acrylic paint for the bottoms of my god tier John shoes and on a whim I decided to ‘seal’ them with clear nail polish. You probably cant tell from the picture, but it makes the paint look a lot less dull (I actually used a shade of lighter blue than canon, I think) and makes it so that the paint doesn’t chip at all. The shoe on the bottom is the one sealed with nail polish and the one on the top is just acrylic paint alone, and in person there is a big difference!
ALSO if you see a small bottle of Tulip(flat) fabric paint at your local Joans, you most likely won’t need to buy two- I thought it wouldn’t be enough but just one bottle covered both of my size 8 and a half shoes pretty well
submitted by hamaliastuck
Mod Note: Because of the small volume of each bottle of nail polish, I would recommend something like Mod Podge instead. The bottle will last a lot longer and will give you better coverage, and therefore be cheaper overall.
Well since just putting the picture up didn’t work so well here’s a link to the full sized one.
Do you want to cosplay someone with a round head???!?!
Do you need some help??? WELL YOU HAVE COME TO THE RIGHT PLACE.
Caitie is here to help you on your journey! <3
I found this great tutorial that is perfect for Jade’s Dog Tier ears; http://katsumiyo.deviantart.com/art/Animal-Ears-Tutorial-212073357
Here’s how they turned out for me; http://sandee4eyes.tumblr.com/post/49693845505/here-have-some-pics-of-my-new-dog-ears-i-made-for I definitely recommend this for everyone who wants to make their own ears. It’s easy to alter the shape of the front triangle if you want something longer or narrower (which I might do for myself).
submitted by sandee4eyes
I found a really (or should I say reelly) nice Feferi trident tutorial. It’s very helpful
submitted by bobbys-tootsies
Okay, here’s an alternate way of getting the scratches on equius’ glasses without permanently marking them. It also works if you want thicker, less realistic scratches.
You will need:
- liquid wite-out
- a pair of glasses (i got mine from a second hand store for 1$. Try places like Value Village or gas stations)
- A toothpick/a pencil/some stick
- some scrap paper or plastic or something
It’s a very easy method, and you can see very well through the glasses with minimal impairment.
- Pour a bit of wite-out onto the paper or plastic or whatever. About the size of a penny
- Make a basic outline of the scratches (I used the canon scratch pattern, but you don’t need to) by using the toothpick as a sort of “brush” and making thin lines
- Thicken lines until dark enough/thick enough for your liking
- Let dry for a few minutes
The thing about this method is that you might have to bring some toothpicks and wite-out with you to cons because, if you drop them/scrape them against the wall, it’s very easy for the wite-out to come off. This is also a good thing, though, because you can wash the wite-out off easily and the glasses will be left completely unscathed!
Hope this helps!
(sorry for my awful face)
submitted by christopherecclestoner