grocerymart-of-time:

(Mind you, this is in the experimental stages and hasn’t been proven to work yet. This is just how I was going to attempt it!)

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Hello, this is the girl that mentioned a way to make Vriska arms earlier! Here is a pic of my almost finished arm.

So on like Sunday me and my dad went to Home Depot to get material for my Vriska arm. My dad suggested we make it out of this stuff called flex (like a dryer vent thing), and there was another material that looked like a metal pipe (not PVC), but I can’t remember what it’s called. We got the 3-inch of both, and we are in the process of putting it together.

A word of caution: You will need the flex in order to bend your elbow. You’ll also need something to cover your arm to avoid getting cut up by the metal (which happened to me in the store), like an ACE bandage or something of the sort.

But it will look like a real arm and look quite amazing.

submitted by mypatronistavros

Mod Note: Here’s an option if you really want to work with metal, but be extremely cautious - you’re working with metal.  Wear work gloves and ask an adult for help if you don’t know what you’re doing.  Be safe!

http://hackaday.com/2012/10/04/diy-armor-starts-with-this-gauntlet-tutorial/

submitted by furrieseverywhere

Cyberdog is a cool online clothing shop for cyberpunk couture. While searching aimlessly, I found some pretty amazing cosplay items that I felt deserved to be posted here.

(quick note, the website does have flashing gifs on it. The links I am posting, however, do not, but if you wanted to search it yourself…you know, just a heads-up)

This shirt would be great for either a grimdark!Rose, or a fancy Rose cosplay, it was the first item that caught my eye and is rather cheap compared to the other items: http://shop.cyberdog.net/puff-ball-top/p610

These boots are a bit expensive, but would make an amazing addition to a robotic cosplay: http://shop.cyberdog.net/gothika-600uv-womens/p1284

And while on the topic of robots, why not a full robot shirt (switch color to silver): http://shop.cyberdog.net/xxx-statue-ls-top/p674

Or a robot dress, for Jadebot’s model: http://shop.cyberdog.net/xxx-orbit-dress/p670

Or robot arm socks!: http://shop.cyberdog.net/xxx-long-gloves/p377

They make the metallic items in mens sizes as well, for Brobots: http://shop.cyberdog.net/xxx-long-gloves/p377

And this coat would be great for a Sawtooth costume (change color to black): http://shop.cyberdog.net/jedi-coat-long-fleece/p1127

And finally, a 12 AM dress (or pretty darn close!): http://shop.cyberdog.net/gladiator-dress-galaxy/p1586

submitted by phantomthelabrat

lilalovespeaches:

Found this while looking for some other tutorial.

This can be a good method for both robots, and exiles!

akaisha0:

Also on DA: Here

Finished Result:

I’ve been getting a lot of questions about my legs. They aren’t perfect yet so I really appreciate all the support! I made them hours before I had to leave for the con so I didn’t document the process all that well but I’ll do my best to explain.

Materials used:

• Craft foam
• Muslin
• Mod Podge Matte
• Mod Podge Harrd-Coat
• Hot Glue
• Contact Cement or E6000 Epoxy (if you have time to let it cure)
• Krylon Premium Sterling Silver Spray
• Krylon Indoor/Outdoor Primer White (could also use Gray)
• AppleBarrel Burgundy, FolkArt 666 Metallic Antique Copper, FolkArt 925 Wrought Iron
• Paint brushes and foam brushes
• Scissors or Exacto knife
• Magic Marker
• Athletic Grey Leggings
• Velcro
• Newspaper
• Masking Tape

Materials tried that didn’t work:

• American Accents Smooth Satin Finish in Granite
• Rust-oleum LeakSeal Flexible Rubber Coating

First image is the leggings stuffed with cotton so I could draw on them. The second image is the finished leggings on my legs:

1. Either put on the leggings and have a friend draw all the under-the-hood mechanical work with the marker while you wear the leggings or stuff the leggings with stuff in the size of your legs/slightly bigger.

2. I take newspaper and draw blobs on it  to resemble the metal plates  I want for Tav’s legs. I fit one at a time. If it doesn’t work I learn from it and go back and redraft until I have a full set of patterns in the newspaper. Draft the patterns OVER the leggings, because the leggings do make a difference.

3. Cut out the craft foam in the shapes you created with the newspaper. Sometimes a sheet isn’t big enough and you’ll need to connect two sheets together. Connect the sheets together with masking tape but do not hide the seam with anything yet! There is a step for that later. Make sure the armour is FLAT, not rounded into a cylinder yet.

Mod Podge:

4. Take your Mod Podge Matte or Mod Podge Hard coat out now. If you don’t have any make a paper mache glue out of white glue and water (usually 3 parts glue to one part water). Cut out strips of muslin or other gauzey fabric (not medical gauze!). Put a layer of the Mod Podge or Mache Glue on the back side of the armour. While still wet, layer slightly overlapping strips of the fabric on top of it. Thoroughly coat/saturate the top of the fabric so it sticks to the armour. It’s okay if it extends off the armour, just don’t glue it to the floor. Once it dries (30 minutes to an hour) you can trim away the excess. You can also do the fabric layer after the armour is closed up but I don’t advise it in flat plates like this.

What it looks like before trimming:

5. Close up the armour so it’s in a cylinder that will fit around your leg. You can hold it in place with masking tape for now on the outside and inside. Make sure the tape is PARALLEL with the seam so it can be covered.

6. Cut out strips of foam to cover the seams and add extra dimension to the leg plates. For bolts I use a combination of craft foam, metal studs/rivets, and dollops of hot glue.

7. Coat the armour in 1-3 layers of the Clear Polyurethane spray. This helps seal the foam and add strength because the foam will absorb EVERYTHING. Even primer.

8. Once dry, do a couple layers of the primer. It will NOT cover the foam entirely I’ve found. I’ve seen people recommend an automotive primer, but this is what I had on hand. You can see how light the primer is on my foam in the image of me pretending to be the Pope Of Britain in my cool new leg-plate hat :B You can sand the primer if you want but I wanted a weathered look and didn’t bother. You can also score the armour now with an exacto kife to give scratches if you want but I personally find you can get the same look with just dry-brushing paint.

9. This is where I tried different silver spray paints. I started with the American Accents Granite but it was not doing enough coverage on the foam, even with all the priming. We tried a rubber spray to help seal it too but that just pooled and bubbled and did not work either. We ran to the store and found the Krylon Premium Sterling Silver spray. I put it on the leggings and it was obnoxiously silver (like tin foil) and very full coverage. Be sure to color the edges and inside too!

10. If you want bright leggings stop there! Otherwise move on to the weathering. Similiar to my horn tutorial, I mixed paint that I thought would weather nicely. I chose the colors of paint because it was shades that I wanted for rusting. When I made my IN and Eridan horns I weathered with shades of gold instead. I mixed Burgandy, Copper, and Wrought Iron paint and slathered it on my armour in crevices and edges one small bit at a time and let it dry for 10-30 seconds. Then, I wiped it off with a damp cloth. The priming wanted it to hold so wiping it off with difficult. It either took too much or too little off so be careful. After I did this I went back with a dry brush a tiny bit of paint to add extra build up over the weathering and to weather the middle/open sections. 

11. Seal the paint one last time with a clear matte finish, matte mod podge, or even more clear polyurethane spray (or hell, if you want to, resin).

12. Slide the armour on over the leggings to judge positioning. Glue velcro onto the leggings and the leg armour with hot glue (not permanent sadly) or contact cement/e6000. Keep in mind that the last two epoxies take 60 minutes to 24 hours to cure and stick in place so you need to glue them on when the leggings are stuffed to hold the shape.

13. There you go! Flexible, easy to move in, and relatively sturdy Tavros robo legs!

Or a really cool post-apoloclyptic pope hat…

kawaiiglasses:

Seriously though, this thing is huge and very image-heavy. It’s designed to be of help to even first-time facepaint users, but some painting skill is required.

Average application time: 2 hours.

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http://vintage-aerith.tumblr.com/post/27571429610/how-does-i-craft-foam-armor-aka-laurens-weird

I think this would be good if you were trying to make the Iron Lass costume, I suppose?

submitted by gilligan-pantyhose

Magic 8 ball:

link

Robo:

hand  

this seems pretty good for the arm

Wings: I would form wire into the frame of the wings and pull pantyhose over it. Then, I would take some fabric paint, [or glitter and glue] to add in the details. This could also work for Aradia.

Wig: link 1 link 2 link 3

For March Eridan, I would buy one of these wigs and sew in a purple weft. Here are some good wigs, that just require a big cutting job and some slight curling: link 1 link 2

Skirt: link

Jane’s moustaches: link

mailbox [i feel like this would be a cute prop if you have the money/want to be different]: link

I used this wig for aradiabot, its long and curly.

if you like Aradia with curly hair, also a great price!

submitted by kingdomofarthur